When Edwin Land created instant film, I doubt he could have known how much people would come to love it. For 60 years after its inception, it was wildly successful, despite its often expensive cost. From the housewife to the professional, everyone made a little room for Polaroid in their lives.

When the company announced its impending shut down in 2008, there was a universal cry that went out across the internet. Even those of us who use Fuji pack film were distraught because there are some things that it just doesn’t do as well as the original Polaroid film. As of the end of 2010 even Fuji’s 100b instant B/W film has been discontinued.

As a result of the Polaroid Instant Film shut down, some companies put their remaining stock on clearance, and others raised prices to just south of insanity. Nevertheless, the converts of the instant film cult made a rush to bolster their stocks before it was gone forever. Now, with The Impossible Project in full swing, there is a glimmer of hope for those of us who still cling to our intregal film cameras. However, even with this silver lining, the end of an era is drawing nigh as digital photography continues its march towards the future. In the world of instant films, the heyday is long since passed, and things will never be the same. Its final glimmer of existence is nigh and we will be alive to witness its journey into that long goodnight.

I have oft relived the memories of moments shared by my family, long before I was born, through the Polaroid shots that remain. Even at 32 years old, I have a box of Polaroids of myself when I was young. Unlike digital, Polaroid has a “real” aspect to it. It’s tangible, it can’t be backed up in its original form and always unmarred by photo retouching software. It simply is what it is. The image came into existence the moment it was captured; each shot is a little slice of what life once was.

The Reasoning Behind the Project

Earlier this year, I learned that there was a chance that I had testicular cancer. Even though I knew that cure rates were high, there is nothing in life more sobering than the knowledge that something might be killing you from the inside out. As I went through the medical tests to determine if that was the case, I decided to write a list of 100 Things To Do Before I Die. I made the promise that if I got out of the predicament unscathed, I would try my best to complete as many items on the list as possible. Several of the items are Photography related … #11 is taking a photo trip around America. (if you would like to read the entire list, it can be viewed here, feel free: http://docs.google.com/Doc…)

As you might have guessed, I was given a clean bill of health. Now, with the Instant America Project, I hope to accomplish one or more of those goals in life, as well as attempt to capture tiny moments of America in glorious Polaroid/Fuji images. Each image will be geotagged the old fashioned way … with an archival grade pen. The resulting images will be scanned digitally each day and a select few will be uploaded to the Instant America Project’s website. Upon my return home, some will be framed, some professionally reprinted, and those destined for pledgers will be shipped out. The remaining original images will be signed and placed into longterm storage to protect them for future generations. After this is completed, a website will be set up to display all the images, and a book will be designed and assembled. The book will be shopped to publishers, and if it is not chosen for publication, the book will be self-published through Blurb (or comparable POD book company). A gallery showing may eventually become a reality as well. Permanent donation of the collection to a museum will occur within 5 years of completion. All updates will be posted to the Instant America Project’s website as they occur.

How It Works

Pledged funds will be partly used to purchase the pack film needed for the project, due to the cost of Polaroid branded film I will be primarily be using Fuji packfilms 3000B, 100C & 100B. Polaroid 600 compatible artistic film will come from The Impossible Project. Original Polaroid 600 film will come from my own stash and purchased, where found, along the way. Initial computations estimate a minimum of 550 exposures.

Remaining funds will pay for gas, the occasional hotel stay (I plan on camping some to increase funds available for the actual project and to get that great morning light) and food. The goal is to travel through at least 11 states in 12 days. The tentative track includes a loop that begins in Kentucky, goes through Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado, New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Tennessee, and ending in Kentucky. A 3100 mile trip through America’s Heartland, the Rockies, the High Plains, the Desert, the Breadbasket, and the renowned Red Dirt roads of Oklahoma. The entire project will be completed by the beginning of Summer 2011.

Cameras

During the course of the project I will be using my own Polaroid cameras. They include a Land Camera Automatic 350, Land Camera Automatic 450, Land Camera Automatic 250, Polaroid Spirit 600, SX-70 and One Step 600. Pack film cameras have been converted to use modern lithium batteries and view finders have been enlarged. An additional Land Camera Automatic 250 is currently in the process of being converted to a fully manual 127mm pack film camera. If I locate the needed 5″ 127mm shutter in time this will also be a camera that is used in the project.

Also, regardless of the book publishing, 5% of any and all personal proceeds garnered from future endeavors related to this project will be donated to The American Child Photographers Charity Guild (http://www.acpcg.org/). The ACPCG, is a worthy non-profit organization devoted to taking portraits of terminal children and children in crisis for families in need. An emotional difficult job, but a worthy one indeed.

$0.00 – $100.00
Don’t expect a high quality camera in this bracket. Most often these are the cameras a parent would give to an under-16 year old for random Youtube shots.

Vivitar Vivicam 5018 … $42.95 http://www.adorama.com/VVV5018BK.html?kbid=65523
Your typical beat around camera. Cheap, decent image quality, suitable for digital images and prints to 4″x6″

Pentax Optio E90 … $54.95 http://www.adorama.com/IPXOE90BK.html?kbid=65523
Again, a beat around camera. Suitable for digital images and prints to 4″x6″

Samsung SL605 … $99.00 http://www.adorama.com/ISGSL605BK.html?kbid=65523
These are great little cameras to carry when a larger more complex camera is unsuitable.

Rollei 140 … $99.95 http://www.adorama.com/ISGSL605BK.htmll?kbid=65523
While I haven’t tested one of these in real life the company has been producing solid photographic equipment for 60+ years.

Nikon S4000 … $99.95 http://www.adorama.com/INKCPS4000LR.htmll?kbid=65523
This is the camera I recommend most in the 0-100 category. Good all around camera. Nothing fancy but capable.

$100 – $200
In this category you gain some Manual control, better optics, better low light performance, and video shooting.

Canon SD780 IS Elph … $119.95 http://www.adorama.com/ICASD780RDR.htmll?kbid=65523
This one of the cheaper cameras to offer image stabilization. Link to the Red one, but other colors are available.

Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS1 … $149.00 http://www.adorama.com/IPCDMCZS1SR.htmll?kbid=65523
This is a good all around camera.

Nikon S1000PJ … $149.00 http://www.adorama.com/INKCPS1000PR.htmll?kbid=65523
Good point and shoot, but this camera has a BUILT IN projector to let you display your images on virtually any surface.

Olympus SP-600 … $178.00 http://www.adorama.com/IOMSP600UZTI.htmll?kbid=65523
This is only camera at this level that is an ultra zoom lens camera. Olympus optics are excellent and this camera is a steal for 178.00

Nikon S70 … $179.00 http://www.adorama.com/INKCPS70BK.htmll?kbid=65523
Probably one of the best cameras in the grouping.

Nikon S6000 … $197.00 http://www.adorama.com/INKCPS6000BK.htmll?kbid=65523
This is the Nikon I would recommend out of the group.

Canon SX120 IS … $199.00 http://www.adorama.com/ICASX120.htmll?kbid=65523
Of this, and the previous group, this is the camera I recommend above all else in the sub-$200 point and shoot cameras. There are better point and shoot cams to be had, but this one can’t be beat for the price. Image stabil. excellent image quality, outstanding low light ability, and backed by the Canon name.

Canon SX200 IS … $259.95 http://www.adorama.com/ICASX200BK.htmll?kbid=65523
This is, hands down, a killer camera for the price. All the bells and whistles and small. Highly recommended.

Nikon L110 … $276.00 http://www.adorama.com/INKCPL110BK.htmll?kbid=65523
For a fixed lens “point and shoot” camera the L110 is an excellent choice. The reach of a nice DSLR lens with the price of a point and shoot. Highly recommended.

Ricoh CX3 … $289.95 http://www.adorama.com/IRCCX3B.htmll?kbid=65523
A brand name not usually known outside of hard core shooters, Ricoh has been making high end cameras for many years. The CX3 is an excellent camera for the price, in fact, at 289.00 this is Ricoh’s ENTRY LEVEL camera.

Canon S90 … $299.00 http://www.adorama.com/ICAS90R.htmll?kbid=65523
This is Canon flagship point and shoot. The image quality of a DSLR in a size that fits in a girls tight jeans pocket. This camera is a fence straddler as it has all of the auto function needed by the amatuer, but it also has many features of more advanced cameras. It can shoot in RAW format, fully manual mode, and has two command dials just like a DSLR.

Olympus E-420 … 299.00 http://www.adorama.com/IOME420KR.htmll?kbid=65523
What??? A DSLR camera AND lens at the sub-300 mark. Yes, tis true. While I myself am not a fan of Olympus DSLR gear, the camera has gotten great reviews. It is a solid performer in the majority of locations an amatuer DSLR user would be.

$300+
Well, here we are, the sky is the limit after this, although I usually cap the pricing at ~$1000.00.

Nikon Coolpix P100 … $395.00 http://www.adorama.com/INKCPP100BK.htmll?kbid=65523
Again, a solid quality camera. DSLR functionality in an advanced point and shoot body. RAW, IS, 26x zoom, Nikkor optics.

Canon SX30 IS … $399.00 http://www.adorama.com/ICASX30.htmll?kbid=65523
DSLR functionality in a point and shoot body. RAW.

Sigma DP-1 … $449.00 http://www.adorama.com/SGDP1.htmll?kbid=65523
I would recommend this camera only for people who know what they are doing. This is a fix lens, prime only, camera. 16.6mm with a three level digital filter that simulates 35mm film. RAW.

Canon G10 … $499.00 http://www.adorama.com/ICAG12.htmll?kbid=65523
If you are a camera noob, but want to eventually get into it hot and heavy, this is the camera you need to get. This camera can take you from snap shots to museum quality images. The best ALL AROUND camera on the list.

Olympus EP-2 … $899.00 http://www.adorama.com/IOMEP2B14.htmll?kbid=65523
I am a little partial to this camera as I own one for my “walking around” camera. This camera IS a DSLR in a point and shoot format. 720p video. RAW. Interchangeable lenses. Hot shoe. The works. I use this camera as much as my large DSLR set up. The best part about this camera, is that with the proper adapter ring, nearly any lens from the past 60 years can be used on it. Anything from $25 CCTV lenses to $15,000.00 Leica gems.

So, there you go, 35 Photography’s 2010 Christmas camera list. Also, and I know someone will ask, the camera I personally recommend out of all of them are the following two …

Sub-$300: Canon SX200 IS
Sub-$400: Powershot G10
$400+: Olympus EP-2

When I took my new portfolio from the wrapper the above word was what I exclaimed. Hit the jump for the nitty-gritty.

First off, let me say that AdoramaPix offered me this book free of charge due to a previous review I had written on AdoramaPix’s normal print services, which are still my primary print outlet. They contacted me and offered me one, they did not ask for a review, and I am doing this of my own volition. As a side note, this is the first review on Three Five Photo of a product that I did not pay for myself. Kudos to AdoramaPix for promoting their products in a very lassiez-faire attitude and for giving me this chance to try out their Book offering.

Ease of Creation: 8/10
AdoramaPix has an online software suite that allows you to create custom book designs, edit/use their pre-designed templates, and an option to create a blank book so you can import pages created in an layout suite like Pagemaker, Quark, Photoshop, or InDesign. The software is a little slow running, depending on your machine, but VERY in depth. The only thing I wanted to do but couldn’t was to have a round/oval clipping mask on my logo on the front. Aside from this one thing using the book software was excellent and offered much more stability and options than the Blurb Booksmart software I used in the past. Another plus to using an online suite is that the book saves to Adorama’s servers protecting your work from being corrupted or lost in the event of a hard drive failure. It took me right at 2.5 hours to compile my book using the software. Normally, I would have used InDesign but I wanted to be able to give a full review of the process.

Quality: 9.5/10
When I first opened my book, as I mentioned before, Wow was all I had to say. The cover is heavier than most typical book covers. The pages are thick and the paper used provide excellent color rendition. Pages lay flat as advertised and the finish is just the right balance between gloss and satin. Overall, the book feels very well made. The only thing I have against it is it shows fingerprints, so carry a soft cloth if you are using this book as a portfolio as am I.

Shipping: 10/10
As usual Adorama’s shipping packaging was excellent. The piece was well protected and shrink-wrapped inside its protective shipping carton.

Note: Below are a few things I would suggest Adorama to add in.
1. Template pages. I used a predesigned book and the edited it as I needed, however there were several page layouts that I liked better. I had to create those from scratch. Had there been a page layout template it would have been much easier.
2. A paper that is slightly more fingerprint resistant. This isn’t a big complaint at all, the paper is excellent as is.
3. More predesigned book. The selection is excellent, but there could be more.

Conclusion: While priced slightly higher than other POD bookmakers the product delivered is more than worth the increase in price. This is a product you will be happy to received for yourself and to deliver to your clients. I am looking forward to seeing how well they can shrink my current 8×12 book to a 6×9 book to use as a portable portfolio that fits in my messenger.

Hit the link for the rest …

I. Basics/Features

I purchased the E-P2 bundle from Adorama.com for an excellent price. As usual, Adorama provided ultra-fast shipping and I highly recommend them for all your camera needs. As for the camera, below are the specs on the camera purchased …

• Olympus E-P2 DSLR (yes, the camera is tech. a DSLR)
• Micro 4/3rds Sensor
• 12.3 Megapixels
• Shutter speeds from 60 secs – 1/4000 sec including Bulb
• 3 frames per second
• In-camera image stabilization
• 3″ 230k rear LCD
• Autofocus Tracking
• Contrast Detection AF system
• ISO 100-6400 (100-1600 for Video)
• Dual control wheels
• Supersonic Dust reduction
• RAW capable
• 720p, 30fps video recording w/ stereo sound
• Multiple Aspect Ratios, 4:3, 2:3, 16:9 & 6:6
• Face recognition
• 8 in-camera Art filters and 14 scene modes
• Multiple Exposure with Image Overlay ability
• Mini-HDMI Out, which allows you to control your camera from your TV remote
• Hot shoe adapter

Bundle Included:

• VF-2 Electronic Viewfinder
• M. Zuiko 17mm f/2.8 Pancake lens (22.5mm deep)

II. First Impressions

When I first opened the E-P2 box I was impressed with how well it was packed. Everything was in an individual plastic bag and then wrapped in foam sheets. The E-P2 itself was heavy with an overall feeling of solid construction. Buttons are firm in their respective slots and not loose at all. Command dials were solid feeling as well with no wiggle room. In fact, I believe the upper command dial is made of metal.

The “black” color of the camera is more like a dark grey, but not at all displeasing. Great chrome accents help to pull across the retro feel of the device.

The overall solid feeling of the E-P2 does not carry over to the VF-2 electronic viewfinder. Compared to the E-P2 the VF-2 feels flimsy and poorly made. The outer shell is matte plastic and doesn’t match the color of any of the plastic on the E-P2 itself. But, don’t let the cover fool you, the VF-2 is a top-notch device functionally speaking.

The M.Zuiko 17mm f/2.8 lens feels well made with good heft to it. It is not at all loose when placed in the body and feels well mated to the E-P2. The chrome color matches well with the E-P2.

The body seems a little smaller than the cheaper consumer targeted E-PL1, which might be an issue at first if you are like me and possess large hands. Although, with this being said, everything is in good relation and using the E-P2 with large hands is not at all impossible. I would suggest getting a good strap to prevent dropping the E-P2 if you do, in fact, have large hands … if you have them, you know what I mean.

II. Interface

The interface on the E-P2 is a little clunky for such a high end camera. It seems horrid at first, but cycling through it for a day or three will allow you to learn it quite well. Its not really all that bad and the initial shock of the interface probably comes from my experience with full scale Nikon DSLR interfaces.

III. Performance

So, now we get to the brass tacks of the matter, the performance of the E-P2. One of the biggest complaints people have regarding the E-P2 is Autofocus speed. It is true people were very accurate in their assessment of the auto focus on the E-P2′s predecessor the E-P1. However, the E-P2, along with the recent Firmware release has significantly fixed this AF issue. In good light the E-P2 can autofocus in less than 1/2 second by my own unscientific calculations. In low light the AF can hunt a little longer than I like, so if you shoot primarily in low light the E-P2 might not be the best option for you. Olympus should consider releasing a low light AF assist add on that attaches to the hotshoe and fixing this issue in the E-P3.

Another complaint on the E-P2 is the low definition rear LCD. Since these cameras do not have a viewfinder images are composed on the LCD or through the VF-2 EVF. Because of this fact, the lower quality LCD is an issue that people have grumbled about. Personally, I haven’t found an issue where the lower quality screen has impeded my ability to take a good shot. Although, I can understand the issues people have with a cheap performing LCD in a 900.00 camera body.

The LCD is a perfect segue into my impressions of the VF-2 electronic viewfinder. While it might be made of cheap feeling plastic the LCD inside of it is OUTSTANDING. I would challenge anyone to be able to see the pixelation in the VF-2. It is crystal clear and color reproduction are top notch. My personal opinion is not to buy this camera without the VF-2, it is well worth the cash.

The M. Zuiko 17mm f/2.8 lens that came with my E-P2 is an upgrade from the normal kit lens (the M. Zuiko 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6). While it is a good lens it does not hold a flame to the exceptional Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 lens that also fits the Micro 4/3rds mount on the E-P2. In my opinion, if you can’t get around it, go with the 17mm f/2.8 over the 14-42mm kit lens, if you can swing the cash just buy the E-P2 body and the Panasonic 20mm f/2.8 separately (MSRP $299.00)

The battery for the E-P2 is accurately described at being able to power the camera through roughly 250-300 shots. This is roughly what a 4GB SDHC card will hold. As such, I would advise that if you plan to shoot more than a few hours, perhaps on the streets, to purchase a second battery to have on hand.

Lastly, I wanted to address the Flash Sync on the E-P2. Officially it is listed as 1/180, however, in my experience my E-P2 was able to fully sync at 1/320 sec. Others I know have reported being able to sync at higher speeds, some as much as 1/500th sec. The camera is fully capable of using remote triggering devices for off-camera lighting. I tested the sync speed with a set of Cybersyncs from Paul C. Buff with no misfires.

IV. Art/Scenes

The E-P2 has a great mixture of special artistic settings that you can use to create some amazing shots. While I won’t go over them all and post samples, I did want to touch on a few of them that I think are amazing.

The cross process and lomo settings are just great, very artistic and works really well. However, when using the Art settings the viewfinder tends to become staggered and it slows down my shooting process.

Multiple exposures are just awesome on the E-P2. You can use any image you’ve shot to create a double exposure or chose to shoot two shots back to back. BUT, here is the kicker. When you are shooting a double exposure the E-P2 actually overlays the previous image over what you are seeing through the EVF. This allows you to line up the second image to perfection. This is a superb way of creating double exposures.

V. Accessories

So, now that you know about the camera, lets talk accessories. A leather case for the E-P2 is strangely absent from Olympus’ lineup. There was one for the E-P1 but it is oddly gone with the release of the E-P2. Perhaps this is because Olympus is preparing to release an updated model or they just decided not to move forward with the product any longer, either way its disappearance means you’re left looking for cases elsewhere. There are numerous options out there for these camera’s due to their popularity so don’t settle for the first one you find. Look around and find something that matches your personality.

Another fun accessory for the 17mm f/2.8 lens are the 37mm augmentation lenses meant for camcorders. Usually selling for less than $30.00 USD, these lenses come in a couple different styles. Wide angle, fisheye, and 2x telephoto are three of the more popular, easy-to-find, types.

Lastly, you can not talk about Micro 4/3rds cameras without talking about the plethora of adaptors available for the E-P2 and other Micro 4/3rd cameras. Everything from modern Nikon/Canon lenses to 80 year old C mount lenses designed for early motion picture cameras, you’ll find an adapter for. As a Nikon shooter the first thing I bought was a Nikon adapter. It is important to note that fully manual lenses are the best options to use due to the lack of aperture control in the E-P2 for old lenses. Also note that you need to set the camera to shoot without a lens so it doesn’t look for the electronics of a normal lens. This ability is one of the things that draw people to the E-P2. Everything from 25.00 CCTV C-mount camera lenses to 10,000.00 Leica f/.90 M mount lenses can be pulled from storage and used again. In some ways the E-P2 is being considered the “poor man’s Leica M9.”

IV. Conclusions

Overall, I have to give the Olympus E-P2 a 4.5 / 5 rating. The .5 loss comes from the low quality LCD, lack of AF assist lamp, and clunky interface.

The VF-2 receives a 4.75 / 5 rating with a quarter point knocked off for the light weight plastic housing.

The M. Zuiko 17mm f/2.8 gets a 4 / 5 rating. This is because the lens just isn’t as sharp and contrasty as a photographer would like, although it is an overall excellent lens it is not quite up to par with the E-P2.

VI. Sample Shots

A review of the Olympus E-P2, pack film Polaroid tutorial, Tokina 12-24 f/4 review, a review of Adoramapix’s photobooks, blog posts from two photo road trips planned for mid-July and early August, and lastly I am adding a new section to the site … a print store. The Print store is where you will be able to purchase my limited edition prints directly from me, all hand signed and numbered. In addition, I’ll be running a contest or two, the gallery will be updated, AND I’ll finally get the Wedding gallery up and running.

So, bear with me and I promise I’ll make it worth the wait.

W.

Before I get into the good stuff, I just want you mention that I won’t be going into significant technical details about this lens. That information is readily available from Nikon USA’s website, and unlike other blogs, I don’t feel the need to continue to beat the dead horse. The point of this review to is to let you know how this lens feels in the field during use. That being said, lets get started.

Having recently acquired some funding to upgrade my photography I entered into full on research mode. As a photographer, I find that I swing one of two ways … 1.) I try my best to maximize each dollar. I consider the amount of possible use, the number of times per month I can use it, longevity, upgradability, image quality, etc, etc, etc. and 2.) I blow a wad of cash on something that I’ll probably use once a month (maybe).

For me, the 80-200 f/2.8 AF-D was a case of #1. After a month of research, I felt that the 80-200 would be the best option for my style of photography. Good range for wildlife, nice low-mid range for portraiture, fast for low light usage in wedding situations, awesome bokeh, and great crisp focus. At 1100.00 new, in comparison to the 2000.00+ 70-200, the 80-200 f/2.8 is a STEAL … period. Occasionally, you can find it Refurbed by Nikon in the 800.00 range, Used ones tend to go in the 500-900 dollar range. Something to note when shopping for a Used 80-200, there are actually two versions of this lens. Originally, the lens was a push/pull style but was later switched to the current two ring version. Having used both, I can personally say that I prefer the two ring version that I own.

Build Quality

You cannot talk about this lens without discussing the build quality. Weighing in a roughly 3.5 pounds the 80-200 f/2.8 is largely constructed of metal. I don’t recommend dropping it on concrete. Internally, the lens contains 16 elements in 11 groups including 3 ED elements. The aperture is formed with 9 rounded blades for buttery smooth bokeh when shooting wide open.

Focus Speed

One complaint that people have with this lens is that it is slow to focus. Personally, I don’t agree with those people. From my own tests with a Nikon D80 I can focus the entire range in less than 2 seconds. Two seconds might seem like a long period of time, but for the range the lens gives you I find it to be quite acceptable. There is occasionally some back focus, but I have determined that this isn’t a problem with newer/better spec’d bodies (D90 and up).

Image Quality

Well, it’s just perfection … Im not sure if there is anything I can really say more than that. It is tack sharp with little evidence of distortion. It has great contrast and with the f/2.8 you can get great shots in natural light. The below images was taken at 200mm, roughly 25ft away, handheld in natural light.

Hood

The optional hood, the HB-7, is … well, pathetic in my opinion. It is functional, but no where near as good as it could be. However, the HB-29, that is made for the 70-200 is an excellent replacement. The mounting grips are different though and you will need either a 3rd party adapter (via eBay) or you can choose to modify the HB-29 petal hood to fit the 80-200. In my opinion, the adapter is well worth the 30.00 (including shipping) even though it can be a little difficult to use sometimes.

A third option is a 77mm screw on rubber hood. They are made by several different companies, but I recommend the one manufactured by Mamiya. This hood sells for about 30.00 and can be purchased via any number of camera stores.

Overall

Overall, this is a spectacular lens for the money. Some might not think that 1100.00 is a small amount, but when compared to the 70-200′s price, 1100.00 is a great value. Don’t think about it, just buy it! I got mine here.

I’ve been using ultra-modern, cutting-edge tech, (circa 1992) Vivitar 5250 (RL Edition) and 5600. The 5250 is a great modern looking flash with nice throw and the modular 5600 is still a workhorse powerhouse in the field. Both use 4 AAs however I am in the process of DIYing a 6volt battery pack for the pair as well, more on that later.

The 5250/5600 use modular dedicated feet in place of selling various dedicated flashes. One non-dedicated flash system and 5 different feet for different camera setups. The large shape of these feet make those with less electronics prime for adding in a sync port. For those stuffed with PC boards, a 1/8″ dongle is the way to go. For those interested, the Olympus/Pentax foot module has the most room that I am aware of and thus make for the cleanest port install.

Let’s get started …

Step 0: Gather tools and buy items. You will need a mono 1/8″ mini-phone plug from Radio Shack. I paid 3.29 for two, VERY PRICEY, but it better than waiting on shipping. You will also need two short (~1.5 inch) lengths of wire. A soldering iron and electronics appropriate solder (rosin core). You will also need a very small #0 screw driver.

Step 1: Open up the foot module.

Step 2: Locate the proper pin sites and solder your leads.

Step 3: Drill the hole for the jack, and install the jack.

BE ADVISED THE FOLLOWING OPTIONAL INSTRUCTIONS WILL “NEUTER” THE TTL OPTIONS ON YOUR FLASH. IF YOU ARE NOT AWARE OF WHAT THIS MEANS YOU SHOULD GIVE SERIOUS THOUGHT TO MOVING FORWARD.

Optional Steps:

I am a voyeur. A peeping tom.
I see in the dark and I reign in the light.
I view the things that are, and imagine those that cannot be.
I look and I truly see.

I wear the hats of many.
I am a climber, a diver, a driver, a miner.
A mother, a father, a son, and a daughter.
An artist.

I sail the seven seas.
I walk across deserts and brave the arctic breeze.
I march through jungles. I trek airy peaks.
Just to try and look and see.

I contort, I wedge, I bend, I pose.
I crawl through sand, dirt, fire, the snows.
I shoot the mountains large, the smallest of rose.
I frequent the places where no one else will go.

Famine, fires, floods, wars, earthquakes.
Their prints sit beside those of pristine lakes.
The lens unflinching at the horror, the horror.
It is only there to look and see.

I chronicle our time, the history of earth and man.
I record my life in portions of seconds.
Till that final shutter closes.
My images will remain when I am gone.
Reminding others that I was here.
That I was unafraid to look and see.
I was a photographer.